Coast of Peru

Nazca

Bone dry and baking hot Nazca doesn't have alot to offer, but we went to do a fly over of the famous (and mysterious) Nazca Lines. The town is literally in the desert. We were lucky that our hostel had a cold pool and shaded roof top patio, to escape the very hot weather (a real shock after being in the cooler climate of the highlands). We had a couple of great and cheap set meals, although the South American tendancy to serve rice and chips on the same plate is bizzare! On the second day we had an early morning flight. The plane was so small, it only held four of us and two pilots. The flight was really cool, it was about 40 minutes and we got to fly pretty close to the ground to see the lines, and circle each drawing twice. We saw ten of the drawings, sadly some were not as clear as we were expecting, but it didn't ruin the majestic beauty of them. The best were the condor and the hummingbird.

 The hummingbird (we really needed a better camera)

The Condor


Ica and Hucacachina

Short bus journey from Nazca to Ica, and a taxi to the desert oasis that is Huacachina. A small lake surrounded by guesthouses and palm trees, with sand dunes stretching up behind (its the place thats featured on the 50 sole notes and there is a reason for it!) Its a great place to chill out. On the first afternoon we went on a joint sandbuggy and sandboarding tour into the dunes. The sandbuggies seat nine includng the driver, Rick and I were lucky enough to be seated at the front. The driver drove so fast over, down and round the massive dunes. It was like a sand rollercoaster ride, so much fun. We stopped four times to sandboard, each dune higher or steeper then the last. We had opted to do the traditional boarding which you lie on the board for. The first was nerve racking, but the others were completely awesomme. Rick managed to deck it on the last, he got cocky and tried to go faster by closing his legs, result was a mouthful of sand! lol! We drove to the top of a dune to watch the sunset over the desert, a nice end to a great trip.

 The dunes

Looking down on Huacachina

The second day we went to a winery in Ica, with two Australian girls we met. Its the largest and oldest winery in Peru, 154 years old. It produces 9 varrieties of wine, and three different piscos. The tour was fairly short but really interesting. We got to try 6 of them, most were quite sweet which apparently Peruvians prefer, and the pisco was so strong...we left with slightly wobbly legs.

                                          
Outside the bodega

The third day we went on a tour to the Ballestas Islands (the poor mans Galapagos). The boat trip took about two hours. Sadly the weather wasn´t great. The rain had stopped by the time we got in the boat but it was fairly overcast. We got to see dolphins, sea lions, penguins, pelicans, and so many birds! It was pretty cool when the boat came away from the islands as many birds were flying out to sea, it felt like we were flying with them, as we sped alond side the black mass. That afternoon we hired sandboards and went boarding on our own. It wasn´t as much as the tour because walking back up the dunes, was bloody hard work! Hilarious when rick tried to go down standing up and totally wiped out, again!

 The bird filled islands

 The penguins

 The sealions

The birds in flight

Central Peru

Cusco

Four days in Cusco to acclimatize for the Inca Trek. A great place to do that. Crammed with historic buildings, cobbled streets and yummy cafes. We mainly chilled out, wondered the city and got stuff for the trek. It was wierd having to adjust again to the high altitude, cusco being at 3360m above sea level, which left us feeling pretty rough for a couple of days. We watched two parades on seperate days, one of the local schools and the other of the armed forces, both of which brought out the crowds. Had another spanish lesson, and couldn´t work out if we were more confused before or after!

 Plaza San Blas

 Central Plaza

Cathedral

View over the city

Four day Inca Trek

Day one: Got picked up early and taken by coach to Ollyantambo, where we got to know our group of 16 people over breakfast. It was then another 30 minutes to the start of the trail. The first day was explained to us by our guide as ´flat, not gringo flat though, thats highway flat`. It was abit up and down but really rather easy, a nice way to get used to our boots and heavy packs. The weather was glorious. The trek followed the river, passed pretty flora and we got the chance to see two hummingbirds. We stopped at our first Inca site, a small inca town which we looked down on from the fort on the mountain side. When the group stopped for lunch we were shocked by the five star service! Tables with tableclothes on, and three courses. We all wondered how the porters brought it all, then we remembered the size of the packs they were carrying! Just before we reached the first camp, we stopped at a house selling Chicha, a local brew made from corn, the group toasted to a good trip on dirt cheap beer, and pretty dirt tasting too. At camp that evening we had more amazing food, and were treated to the stariest of nights!

 The gang at the start

 The valley pass

 The first Inca town from above

Chicha cheers

Day two: Another early start for what was to be the hardest of the four days. The climb up to Dead womens pass, the highest point at 4200m, was broken into three parts. The first wasn´t too testing, however the second and third parts were. Many steps! When we got to the top it was such an amazing feeling! We have to be thankful for our zanny guide and his supply of coca leaves. The views back down the valley with the glacier on the horizon was worth the sweat and slog! The second nights camp was half way down the otherside. The descent was all steps, luckily our knees held out well!

 Half way snap

The highest point of the trek (Dead Womens Pass 4200m)


Day three: The longest day walking, but also the most beautiful, with many Inca sites, interesting flora and surrounded the whole time by mountains and glaciers. From the highest point of the day, in accordance to custom we did a ceremony to the Inca Gods for safe passage through. Which involved carrying a stone up from the bottom and coca leaves as offerings. We were on the top of a mountain pass where the views either side were second to none! We descended to a small Inca site and up again to have lunch on top of another mountain. Then 2000 steps down to the third nights camp, where we were able to get our first shower and a cold beer.

Day four: 4am start inorder to catch the first sun come over Machu Picchu. It was a fairly easy 2 hour trek to the sun gate, where we sat and waited for the morning fog to clear to reveal the Inca city. It was so exciting as it cleared! We then walked down the path as the Incas did to the city. The weather was amazing, it really couldn´t have been any better! We had a short tour of the city and then went exploring by ourselves. Everywhere we turned was a great photo! It was interesting learning about how the city was built in accordance to their belief in four Gods; the earth, sun, water and wind. The places of worship were even more beautifully constructed, with no gaps at all in the stone work. Many of the buildings were built arround and using the rocks already there, so houses would often have a wall which was one rock! We got a sense of how clever the Incas were aswell; they had buildings on small stone balls and triangular door frames, to protect against earthquakes, and terraces all around to prevent errosion, also water ducts to stop buildings subsiding. So interesting and truely breathtaking!!!

The whole four days were a real highlight for Rick and I. The group, guide and trek were fantastic. We couldn´t have asked for anything more!!!

 The route

Temporary until we add our even sunnier photos!

Peru

Lima

26 hours on a bus and rather alot of hanging around later we made it to Lima. This was only possible thanks to a friendly couple we met, the girl of which was Spanish and she was able to sort out the confusion at the change over point, phew!!

The landscape on the Peruvian coast is such a stark contrast to Ecuador, dry and desert like. Central lima is rather modern and built up. We spent a couple of days wandering around and trying to recover from the bus journey to do another 20 hour one to Cusco.

 Central Plaza, where the Cathedral and Presidential Palace is, plus many guards with heavy ammunition!

The desert and housing beyond.

South America

Quito

We arrived safely after a rather gruelling flight. A twelve hour flight with no entertainment, we had to resort to talking to each other! Oh God!
The hostel (secret garden) is really high up with a great view over the city. We have found the alltitude difficult, and spent today wondering around the old city like an elderly couple. Its surprising how crappy it makes you feel. We embarked on our first spanish lesson this morning, and have been practising all day, but we feel like we are making little head way! Its hard for people with memories like fish!
Quito is really beautiful, with a real spanish feel. We were surprised to hear it stretches 55km along the valley, so still lots of exploring to be done!

Went to the new town, which wasn´t overly impressive but the walk there through a couple of parks was nice. We were able to get a nice panoramic view of the city from el panecillo, a hill in the centre of town. Second spanish lesson down, so we felt brave enough to eat local. A lot of miss understanding, and many hand gestures, but we were able to eat so all was good!

 The view from our hostel roof bar, out over the old quarter.

 The central plaza.

The view from el panecillo.

Cotopaxi

A national park south of Quito. We stayed in a lodge, which was really cosy, with log fires, a hot tub, and a communal dinning table for all guests to eat together, a real home from home! Rick climbed to the glacier on Cotopaxi volcano the highest active volcano in the world. The altitude made him feel rough, but he did get to clamber in the snow. His highlight was cycling rather fast back down! I took the more serene option and went horse riding on one of the extinct volcaones in the park, the views were amazing and the ride was great fun. Unfortunately very cold and wet towards the end.
It was nice to chill out for a few days.

 The view from the lodge, including our first llama.

 The top of Cotopaxi poking out, the active volcano Rick climbed.

 The view from horseback.

Across the freezing plain.

Baños

Thee Ecuadorian holiday hotspot. A small town in another volcanic valley. We did a walk to a high peak for amazing views. On the second day we cycled to various waterfalls, on the route we also went across the canyon in a cable car. The highlight was doing a bridge swing, a real adrenaline rush! Its a similar idea to a bungee, but your attached at your waist, you simply jump off and swing! We soaked our aching muscles in the thermal baths in the evening. The hotest was 38 degrees!

 The view from one of the surrounding mountain peaks, overlooking the city.

 Rick and Arianne (our lucky charm for our two weeks in Ecuador!).

 The canyon we croosed in the cable car.

 The unfortunate helmets we were given when we hired our bikes. We just prayed not to meet any Germans!

 At the bottom of one of the waterfalls.

The making of candy that the town is known for.


 Saliñas

Stopped over at Riobamba a city on the way south, then went to Saliñas; a remote mountain village where there is a cooperative, producing chocolate, cheese and wool products, oh and bizzarely footballs! Was really good to sample the products (mmmm...yummy!), see the cooperative working really well for the village, and the villagers were really friendly!

The highlight was the evening meal. We went in search of a restaurant open. There was a local eatery with lights on and a sign on the door, when we entered we realised it was actually a cards den, the men playing all turned to look. They were really friendly though, they seated us and called the owner to cook us some food. We had no idea what we were getting, it turned out to be chicken, chips and rice (the usual set meal). We waited for the food watching and chatting to the card players, then suddenly the all got up and darted off in different directions. We couldn´t understand why until a police officer came in for food, it was so funny. We were left to eat on our own with the copper!

 Saliñas.

 The market

The micro football factory


Cuenca

Took a day of travelling to get here, the third largest and most beautiful city in Ecuador. Spent the day wondering the cobbled streets, looking at the many churches and colonial buildings. Couldn´t avoid the rain despite the endless eating in cafes (rain = excuse to do so!). We went to the birth place of the Panama hat, where they are still in production today. There is a small museum there too, a tour in spanish tested mine and Ariannes spanish (rick just did his famous ´í have no idea face`). It was alot of fun at the market trying to get bits to cook for dinner, trying our spannish and surprisingly getting what we asked for. The start of easter celebrations meant the city was alive with people in the evening going to service, and it was great to be out amoungst it. We tried ale brewed in a local micro brewery but were highly disappointed, far to fizzy and sweet.

 Fruit stall

 The fresh produce market

 The New Cathedral

 The Panama hat

 The colonial shops

The micro brewery

Loja

Arrived on Goodfriday, nothing was open, it was really like a ghost town. The next day we did a trek in the Parque Nacional Podocarpus. We set off on the 5 km loop from the rangers station. 5km you would think would be easy. However the first two kilometres were up hill on very rough terrain. The landscape changed from lush forest to scrub land to moorland back to forest. The weather also changed from glorious sunshine to freezing winds and thick cloud at the top. Although the difficult climb to the top reaching 3500m, the views after we descended out of the clouds was amazing, across the top of the mountains. We ate our lunch in the clouds, which was a true trip highlight so far! Once we had got back to the ranger station we then had another 9km walk back to the road to flag a passing bus, luckily there was one. For the last real night in Ecuador and our last with Arianne we did the usual and ate too much.

 The start of the walk

 The top

 Descending

 The view

ooh yeah!